*This post may contain affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Used pool tables usually sell for a few hundred dollars, but the real cost is often higher once you factor in moving, leveling, and any cloth or rail work. A clean slate table can be a solid deal, while a cheap MDF table is often a false bargain once you try to move or rebuild it.
If you are comparing listings, the sticker price matters less than the full setup cost. A table that looks inexpensive on Facebook Marketplace may still end up costing more than a better table once you pay for transport and installation. In billiards communities, that is the part buyers warn about most often.
Here is the simple way to think about it: buy used if the table is real slate, structurally sound, and easy to move into your space. Walk away if the surface is warped, the frame is weak, or the savings disappear once you add labor and repairs.
There is no single standard price, because used pool tables are local and condition-based. Still, most buyers will run into three broad brackets:
| Table type | Common used price range | What that usually means |
|---|---|---|
| Non-slate / MDF tables | $0–$200 | Often sold cheap because they are hard to move, age poorly, and usually do not play like a real table |
| Basic used slate tables | $200–$800 | The usual local buy, especially if the seller wants it gone |
| Higher-end slate tables | $800–$2,000+ | Brand-name tables, 3-piece slate, better condition, or tables with strong demand |
That said, the all-in cost is what really matters. A table priced at $300 can easily end up costing $800 to $1,500 or more once you add moving, setup, leveling, and cloth work. A recent r/billiards discussion reflects the same pattern: the table itself may be cheap, but transport and restoration are where the money goes.
Why the table price is only part of the budget
Used pool tables are not like buying a chair or a coffee table. Even if the seller gives you a great deal, the table still has to be disassembled, moved safely, reassembled, and leveled correctly. If the cloth is worn or the cushions are dead, that adds more.
| Common cost item | What it affects | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Moving and delivery | Transport | Often costs as much as, or more than, the table itself |
| Setup and leveling | Play quality | A table that is not level will roll badly and feel wrong |
| Refelt / new cloth | Surface condition | Usually needed on older tables, especially if the cloth is thin or torn |
| Rail or pocket repair | Ball response and durability | Dead cushions and damaged pockets change how the table plays |
In practical terms, local mover and installer quotes are often the difference between a good buy and a bad one. Buyers commonly report total move-and-setup costs in the several-hundred-dollar range, with repair scope pushing the number higher. The bigger the job, the less the low sticker price matters.
Slate vs MDF: which one is worth buying used?
Slate is the safe bet for a used pool table. It holds up better, plays more consistently, and is much more likely to be worth moving and rebuilding. If the table is solid slate and the frame is sound, you usually have something worth considering.
MDF and other non-slate tables are usually poor secondhand buys. They can warp, swell, or lose flatness over time, especially if they have seen moisture or rough storage. A cheap MDF table may look tempting, but it often becomes expensive the moment you need to move it or make it play well again.
One exception is a very low-cost table for casual family use, where perfect play is not the goal. Even then, think carefully about the move and the lifespan. If you want a table that will hold up, slate is the better long-term choice.
Piece count matters too. A 2-piece or 3-piece slate table is generally easier to move and install than a one-piece slate table, especially if you need to go through tight stairwells, basements, or narrow doors.
What to inspect before you buy
Before you pay, check the table in this order:
- Confirm it is real slate. Ask the seller directly and look underneath if possible. Avoid guesses and vague descriptions.
- Check the frame for wobble. The table should feel rigid, not loose or swaying.
- Look at the rails. Cushions should respond evenly, not feel dead or inconsistent.
- Inspect the cloth. Tears, thin spots, and seams that look lifted usually mean replacement.
- Check the pockets. Cracked leather, loose stitching, or torn liners can add cost.
- Ask about the brand and model. Unknown tables can be hard to service if parts are unavailable.
- Measure access, not just room size. Doorways, corners, stairs, and basement turns can be the real problem.
A good used table should feel solid and predictable. If it flexes, rocks, or has obvious water damage, that is usually a sign to keep looking.
When a cheap used pool table is actually a good deal
A cheap used pool table makes sense when most of these are true:
- It is real slate.
- The frame is stable.
- The cushions still have a decent bounce.
- The cloth is worn but not destroyed.
- The seller wants it removed quickly.
- You already know how it will be moved and set up.
That is the sweet spot: a table that needs some cosmetic work, not a full rebuild. In that case, you may spend less overall than buying a new table, and you still end up with a solid playing surface.
Home tables also tend to wear out slower than commercial ones. Cloth can last several years in a normal home, while commercial tables usually need attention much sooner. Cushion rubber can last a long time in good conditions, but age, heat, and poor storage can shorten its life.
When to walk away
Some tables are cheap for a reason. Walk away if you see any of these:
- MDF or another non-slate surface priced like a real table
- Visible warping, swelling, or water damage
- Missing hardware or a brand nobody can identify
- Dead cushions that no longer return the ball properly
- A one-piece slate table that has to go through a difficult stairwell or basement turn
- Move and setup costs that erase the savings
If the table is free but the moving quote is high, it is not really free. That is the mistake most first-time buyers make.
Used pool table buying checklist
- Real slate, not MDF
- Solid frame with no sway
- Even rail bounce
- Playable cloth or budget for refelting
- Good pocket condition
- Clear path out of the seller’s house
- Clear path into your home
- Parts available for the brand or model
If the table passes most of those checks, it is probably worth a closer look. If it fails two or three of them, the bargain usually disappears fast.
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to move a used pool table?
Move and setup costs vary a lot by region and table size, but they often land in the several-hundred-dollar range. Add more if the table needs refelting, leveling, or cushion work.
Is refelting worth it on an old pool table?
Usually yes, if the table is otherwise solid and the slate is good. Refelting makes the biggest difference when the cloth is worn, slow, torn, or stretched out.
How can I tell if a pool table is slate?
Ask the seller directly, then inspect underneath if possible. Real slate tables feel heavy and solid, and they usually have sections of stone rather than a wood or fiber board surface.
How much room do I need for a pool table?
Room size is important, but access is just as important. A table may fit the room and still fail at the doorway, stairwell, or basement turn. Always measure the route before buying.
Used pool tables can be a great buy, but only when the table itself is worth the move. If you focus on slate, frame strength, cushion response, and total delivered cost, you will avoid most of the expensive mistakes.